Second week of Italian classes and the Genova Symphony

October 29-November 2, 2007 Monday-Friday

The second week of Italian classes have come and gone. We’ve mostly worked on vocabulary. Nothing spectacular. On Friday we worked on food vocabulary (vegetables, fruits, herbs, etc.), and we all went out for lunch to a local hole-in-the-wall trattoria, Maria’s, which is well known locally and was written up in the New York Times.

This brings me to note the relative lack of what I’d call really good restaurants in Genova. Believe me, I’ve tried to find some. The Michelin Red Guide. Local hints and suggestions. All have resulted in what I’d consider decent, passable fare, but nothing that stands out, nothing that made me want to return. At least Maria’s was only 9 euros ($13). Many of the restaurants run 30-40 euros ($45-60), which is too much for “okay” food, especially considering that the wine part is minimal (Italian wine is really inexpensive—you can get 250ml, which is about 2 glasses, for $6-$8). I can’t say I’ve been overwhelmed by the food since I’ve gotten to Italy. Perhaps it’s the regional cuisine that isn’t piquing my fancy. Ligurian food (Genova and its surrounds) is generally based on pastas or gnocchi with pesto (particularly a small twisted pasta called trofie—take a 4 inch long piece of pasta dough rolled into a thin string, fold it back on itself and twist a few times), and seafood (typically of the crustacean or octopus sort). I swear this is the first time I’ve seen octopus carpaccio (raw octopus, sliced thin) and I’d rather not think about it!

It’s easy to come up with food just as good at home using dried pasta and bottled sauces.

On Friday, I booked a ticket for the Genova Symphony. The concert was supposed to start at 8:30pm, but was delayed due to “technical difficulties” until almost 9:00pm. They played a program of Haydn and Strauss. Haydn comprised the first part, Symphony 96 in D maj and Kleine Organmesse #7 with Ricarda Merbeth singing contralto in the Benedicte. Strauss comprised the second part, Vier Lezte Lieder W296 and “Tod und Verklaerung” (op. 24). This was actually a treat. The orchestra is very good and the pieces allowed for several of the principals to play solos, particularly violin, flute, oboe, and horn.